Sewing & Patching

What is "technical performance fabric" anyway, and why is it such a big deal in the outdoor industry?

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When we are active outside- working, playing, hanging out, we rely on our clothing and gear to protect, shelter, last....and work! We expect it to do certain things well, consistently, and for a long time (hopefully!). Such as:

• block the wind or sun's rays

• insulate us from the cold

• be waterproof and keep us dry

• withstand abrasion; be strong and durable and UV resistant

• be warm when wet (wetsuits and synthetic insulation)

• be super light weight, but still tear resistant and strong (silnylon tarps)

• dry quickly (hiking pants)

• look good!

 

Mainly we are talking about nylon and polyester. These are plastic derived fabrics that are woven and spun and treated to have certain "performance" characteristics. This may mean ultra light, breathable and quick drying as in a running jacket, or thick, strong, and waterproof, like that of a large duffle or backpack.

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Puffy jackets are usually filled with down or synthetic insulation and their main job is to keep you warm (but not dry, if it rains). You can layer a waterproof jacket over top, or it may come with a waterproof outer shell built in. You would then have protection from the cold AND the rain. Two ways clothing and soft goods are generally made waterproof is with a clear polyurethane coating or a waterproof breathable (WPB) membrane fabric (eg. gortex). Coatings tend to flake off after a while and are impractical to repair. WPB laminates can last a very long time (decades) if cared for properly. They can also be repaired quite readily. Neoprene is a type of rubber of different thicknesses that by being tight fitting, works by trapping a layer of water next to your skin (as in a wetsuit or gloves), that is then warmed and kept warm, by your body heat.

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Sewing outdoor fabrics requires a wide range of tools and machines. Heavy fabrics like leather, vinyl, cordura and webbing are often too thick or abrasive for regular thread or domestic sewing machines and require an industrial machine or a hand sewing awl and heavy thread. At the other end of the spectrum are the Noseeum netting on tents, light, slinky, polyesters/nylons and stretchy fabrics that tend to snag, deform and bunch up while sewing. A domestic machine can typically handle these jobs, but extra care, time and special techniques are used to achieve good results.

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Appropriate thread selection is also important. I use various types of quality polyester and nylon threads. They are strong, flexible, rot resistant, dry quickly and some are treated to withstand UV damage.

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Glue has its place too, if sewing is not practical or appropriate, or would compromise waterproofness. Sometimes it is used in conjunction with sewing. Sewing is generally the preferred method as it is usually more durable, more easily altered and repaired, and neater.